The Rise of Digital Clones in the Modeling Industry
Fashion model Hannah James is navigating a complex decision as she considers whether to digitally clone herself. At 25, she’s aware of the potential risks that digital replicas could pose to her career. However, she also sees an opportunity to stay ahead of artificial intelligence and potentially increase her income before the technology becomes more widespread.
James recently partnered with Kartel.ai, a Beverly Hills startup that offers models a platform to create and license their digital likenesses for advertising campaigns. This collaboration highlights a growing trend where models are exploring how to leverage AI while protecting their interests.
“It's crazy to see what they can create in hours,” James said, reflecting on her decade-long modeling experience. “It's beautiful, but at the same time, it's scary.”
The Impact of AI on the Fashion Industry
The rise of AI-powered tools has introduced new challenges for models, who are now grappling with how to maintain control over their careers. These advancements allow for the quick generation of images and videos, making it easier to create digital clones of models or even entirely virtual people who don’t exist in real life.
Unlike real individuals, AI models don’t get sick or have bad skin days. They can be in multiple places at once and don’t require breaks during extensive campaigns. This efficiency has sparked debates about whether AI will take away jobs in an industry already dealing with concerns about financial exploitation.
Several brands have experimented with AI models, leading to mixed reactions from consumers. For example, the August issue of Vogue featured an ad by Los Angeles-based brand Guess that included a curvy blond AI model. Similarly, Swedish fast fashion retailer H&M showcased digital "twins" of some of its models in July. While these brands received attention for their innovative use of technology, they also faced criticism over job displacement and unrealistic beauty standards.
Concerns About Consent and Compensation
Sara Ziff, founder and executive director of the Model Alliance, highlighted the broader implications of using synthetic models. She emphasized that the industry needs clear standards for consent and compensation when using digital likenesses.
“Technology is definitely reshaping the modeling industry, and it's doing so by introducing synthetic models that threaten jobs and by digitizing real people, often without clear standards for consent or compensation,” Ziff said.
Many models aren't unionized because they’re typically independent contractors. Despite the glamorous image, models face numerous challenges, including late payments, financial debt, eating disorders, and sexual harassment.
Employment Trends and Earnings
Los Angeles remains a hub for fashion, modeling, and social media influencers. In 2024, there were 880 models employed in California, with most of those jobs concentrated in the Los Angeles metropolitan area. Nationally, there were an estimated 5,350 modeling jobs that year.
According to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, employment of models nationwide is expected to remain stable from 2023 to 2033. However, the bureau notes that cheaper options on social media or the reuse of images may affect the demand for traditional models. Each year, approximately 600 job openings are expected due to workers switching jobs or retiring.
In 2024, the median pay for a model was $89,990 a year or $43.26 an hour, according to the bureau.
Balancing Innovation and Fairness
As brands explore the use of AI, models are still trying to determine how to get fairly compensated when their digital likenesses are used. Rates can vary, and models may earn less from jobs their digital clones perform compared to in-person shoots. However, they might also complete more jobs without the need to travel.
Ben Kusin, co-founder of Kartel.ai, believes AI can help brands reduce costs associated with producing ad campaigns, such as travel and styling expenses. He emphasizes that models will still be paid and can choose whether to allow a brand to use their likeness.
“We're not looking to replace anybody. We're looking to supplement the industry," said Valentina Gonzalez, co-founder of Seraphinne Vallora, an AI marketing agency that worked with Guess. "Just like any other industry, you open new avenues of marketing. People have the choice."
The Future of Modeling
Despite the excitement around AI, some boutique modeling agencies are concerned about the impact on real models. Tereza Otto, co-founder of Otto Models, worries that it will become harder for models to compete against virtual people.
“We're getting into the realm of replacing models with these AI virtual people,” she said. “That won't bode well for our business, because there's a certain human purity to having an actual model do a campaign.”
For James, there will still be in-person photo shoots that she believes AI won’t be able to replicate. “It's important to have a vibe on set with who you're working with,” she said.
